Dormancy Pruning in Michigan: A Horticulturist’s Perspective
- Atzinger Team
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Dormancy is one of the most powerful tools Mother Nature gives us. Learning to prune during this period can transform the health, structure, and longevity of your plants. But timing matters. Not all woody plants appreciate a winter prune, but in Michigan’s climate, making the right call can mean the difference between vigorous spring growth and another season of unruly, unhealthy growth.
What is Dormancy Pruning?
Dormancy pruning simply means pruning plants during their sleep phase. Typically after leaf drop in late fall through early spring before bud break. Here in Michigan, that window usually runs from December through early April, depending on weather patterns.
Pruning during dormancy allows us to:
Reduce spreads of disease
A wounded plant is most vulnerable to infections and illness of any sort. Opening these injuries during wintertime helps negate the risk of spreading infections as the cold kills most pathogens. This allows for the plant to start healing as it awakens.
See branch structure clearly, resulting in easier decision making for attractive form
Minimize sap loss
Stimulate strong spring growth
Dormant pruning allows the energy a plant has to focus on the branches and buds that remain. Giving plenty of energy to encourage a more robust and healthy bloom.
Avoid summer stress on freshly pruned plants

Plants that benefit from Dormancy Pruning
1. Trees, especially those with strong susceptibility to pest and pathogens during the growing season
These are some of the best candidates for dormant pruning:
Oak (Red, White, Pin Oak) – Winter pruning helps prevent oak wilt spread.
Maple (Red, Sugar) – Best pruned in late winter to avoid heavy sap flow.
Linden, Elm (Dutch elm disease prevention requires special timing), Ash (where healthy and minimally affected by EAB)
Hackberry, Honeylocust, Sycamore
Generally any tree not grown for spring flowers
Dormancy pruning helps correct structure, remove rubbing branches, and reduce hazards from snow and wind. A wounded plant is the most vulnerable to infections and illnesses of any sort. Opening these injuries in wintertime practically negates the risk of immediate infection as the cold kills most pathogens. This allows for the plant to start immediately healing in spring, when the number of bacteria is still low, and means that the wound is open for the shortest amount of time possible in the warmer weather, as the plant can start healing as soon as it awakens.
2. Fruit Trees
Michigan’s fruit-growing heritage makes this category especially important.
Apple
Pear
Cherry
Plum
Peach (late winter only—peaches are sensitive to over-pruning)
Dormancy pruning encourages fruiting spurs, improves air circulation, and reduces disease pressure such as fire blight in apples and pears.

3. Many Common Michigan Shrubs
These woody shrubs respond very well to winter pruning:
Dogwood (Red- and Yellow-twig)
Spirea (summer-blooming varieties like Japanese Spirea)
Ninebark (Unless grown for flowering - many varieties are grown for foliar color)
SMOOTH Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens, e.g., ‘Annabelle’)
Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata, e.g., ‘Limelight’)
Buddleia (Butterfly bush - typically die down to a few buds)
Cotinus (Smoke bush)
Boxwood (Heavy thinning needed after years of shearing hedges)
Potentilla
Lilac —only for structural shaping when flowers can be sacrificed

4. Roses
Most shrub roses and hardy varieties (e.g., Knock Out roses) benefit from dormant pruning to remove winter die-back and encourage dense growth. Atzinger Garden typically does this in April once viable buds can be identified, but before the plant has fully leafed out.
Michigan Plants That Should NOT Be Pruned in Dormancy
Some plants are better left untouched until after they bloom or during the growing season. Pruning any of the following in winter can remove future flowers, stress the plant, or invite disease.
1. Spring-Blooming Shrubs
Prune these after they bloom, never during winter, or you will remove flower buds already set the previous fall:
Forsythia
Lilac (common lilac – major cuts should wait until after bloom)
Weigela
Mock orange
Viburnum
Rhododendron & Azalea
Magnolia (tree)
2. Evergreen Trees
Avoid winter pruning on evergreens unless removing damaged or hazardous limbs:
Pines
Spruce
Fir
Hemlock
Arborvitae
These conifers respond best to pruning during the growing season when they can actively produce new buds or candles.
4. Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
This is a major point of confusion. While it is possible to gain some blooms from new growth, most blooms come from the previous years buds.
These hydrangeas bloom on old wood and are notoriously sensitive in Michigan’s colder zones (especially 5 and 6). Winter pruning = minimal flowers.
Best Practices
Time your cuts right
Late winter (February–March) is ideal—temperatures rise enough to reduce desiccation, but buds haven't broken yet.
Sanitize tools
Especially for fruit trees and diseased wood—use 70% isopropyl alcohol between cuts.
Don’t remove more than 25–30% of a plant in one dormant season
Over-pruning weakens the plant and makes it more susceptible to stress.
Always use sharp tools
Dull shears and knives can crease stress marks and crush tissues making it difficult for branches to heal properly.
Follow other general pruning guidelines
Know the goal - Perform heading cuts to encourage growth and thinning cuts to reduce growth.
Start by removing dead, diseased, or crossing/rubbing branches























